Having stayed with Leela in Frankadua, I was now back on the road! I left Frankadua and headed towards Ho, and straddled the Ghana-Togo border southwards to the Aflao border crossing. It was hot and I felt like I was melting in my riding gear when stationary or walking. Relief came from riding as air passed through vents in my riding gear.

Arriving at the Aflao border crossing, many fixers descended on me. One latched on to me and I explained that I prefer to do the formalities of the crossing by myself and wasn't paying for a fixer. He stuck with me, so I reiterated myself multiple times. He was disappointed when he finally asked for money and I gave nothing! Another chap said he watched my bike whilst I was in a building, so he wanted money. I said no, and he was unpleasant in wishing my safety! Anyway, I was now in Togo.

Unfortunately, the change of spark plug and air filter hadn't resolved the engine sputter issue. So, after border, I headed to the KTM shop and the mechanic, Didier, said they could help tomorrow, so I continued to Cocoa Beach resort to sleep there whilst I was in Lomé. Getting my motorcycle into the resort was tricky on the soft sand, but I walked it through at a slow pace.

Camping at Cocoa Beach, Lome, Togo.
Camping at Cocoa Beach, Lome, Togo.
Camping at Cocoa Beach, Lome, Togo.

Well rested, I returned to KTM the next day. Didier handed me a bottle of fuel system cleaner and explained it was a cadeau when I offered to pay! I need to run the bike to know if this resolves the problem, so the solution is inconclusive for now.

I purchased a new rear tyre as my current tyre wasn't fairing well with my desire for it to last from Spain to South Africa. The stock tyre was 110 wide (IRC), I currently have 120 wide (Continental TKC80), and the new tyre is 140 wide (Continental TKC80). It's the only suitable tyre in stock, and it should fit according to my measurements and reports from forums. I'll carry the spare tyre until I need to fit it. I also purchased a new chain, because the rear axle wasn't fitted properly when locals helped to fix a puncture. That caused the chain to stretch and it was at the maximum setting for chain tension.

My intention was to change the front rim, which had been hammered back into shape, and also the bent handlebars. Didier thought the front rim was not an issue, so I didn't replace the rim, and I've got used to the bent bars.

Whilst staying in Lomé, I racked up miles running errands, which was great for testing the fuel system cleaner. It seemed to work! There was an occasional sputter and it was much less than before. I hadn't used all the bottle, so when leaving Lomé, I'll use the last bit and buy a new bottle since it wasn't full when given to me.

One of my errands was to extend my Togo visa from 7 to 30 days. Another was to fix my head torch that had stopped working. It wouldn't charge and wouldn't light up. I rode to the Grand Marche, and parked outside the police station. The policeman took me to someone who knew a repair shop so we jumped on moto taxis. I'm not keen on taking pillion riders since it's a small bike and the subframe was snapped and repaired from the Dakar accident. Torch seems to be fixed but needs testing.

Whilst staying at Cocoa Beach, I found a small place that served a mean salad. Was so good, I returned the next day! I find it difficult eating enough fruit and vegetables because of availability and storage on my motorcycle.

In Lomé, I have been called Jesus by lots of people. I'm white and have a beard; that's it! The irony is I'm atheist!

Camping at Cocoa Beach, Lome, Togo.

It's nice resting and putting my feet up, as well as the errands I had, but I after a few days I was keen to ride again.

Camping at Cocoa Beach, Lome, Togo.

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