Searching for a camp spot

· 2 min read · togo mountains religion

Leaving Lomé, I headed North in Togo towards Kpalimé. I rode for two hours straight and felt shattered. A large tree provided shade whilst I devoured an orange. I was on the edge of a village, which I hadn't realised, and opposite a house. A lad called Elyabim crossed the road to invite me to sit down outside his house. Incredibly kind! I spoke a small bit of French and he spoke a small bit of English, and together we had a nice chat. He expressed interest in visiting UK, so I explained it was cold!

Elyabim (left) invited me to sit on a chair when I was resting in the shade opposite his house. Super Kind! Togo.

After some rest and chat, I continued into the afternoon. Had a late lunch of Fufu with two sauces. It was so tasty that I had a second helping!

After that, I left the paved roads and pursued a track whilst searching for a camp spot. The track was awesome to ride! It snaked between villages North of Kpalimé as it scaled the hills. My ears popped several times!

Fantastic track to ride. North of Kpalime, Togo.
Fantastic track to ride. North of Kpalime, Togo.
Fantastic track to ride. North of Kpalime, Togo.

The views were spectacular, but unfortunately I find it tricky to capture in photos.

Fantastic views North of Kpalime, Togo.

One hairpin had lots of loose gravel and I came off at slow speed. Tried picking up the motorcycle, but couldn't! Dragging the motorcycle into a better position to ease the lift didn't work. Within minutes, a local on a moto turned up. With two of us, it was a struggle!

My venture on the track revealed no suitable camping spots. It was just too hilly with too many people around. Back on the main road, I pulled off down another track and stumbled upon a small settlement. It would soon be dark, so I asked to camp with them. They said yes! I didn't realise until chatting later that they were a Jehova church. The master of the church was a guy called Happy. They were accommodating and fed me Fufu with a fishy sauce, which was my third bowl today! Tea was made from Citronnelle and honey, and it tasted similar to lemon.

That evening, two parents showed up with a daughter around 12 years of age who was hobbling. Happy performed some kind of ceremony. He held her head, talked to her, and appeared to spit or blow forcefully on her. My back was turned, but I was trying to watch! He made her jump on the spot, and she yelped. She fell down at one point, which I think was part of the ceremony where she is pushed backwards into the arms of helpers. She lay on the floor for a bit. Back on her feet, he fed her honey by dripping it into her mouth. Afterwards, Happy explained she had problems with the bones in her knee.

As I was about to leave the following morning, the father turned up with his daughter again. This time, the father carried his daughter into the church. I had intended to get a photo of Happy and the church as I left, but it wasn't appropriate given the situation.

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