Entering Mozambique was slow! Immigration allowed a queue for visas to build up until it was sufficiently large for them to process everyone in one batch. A two-hour wait. Biding time, I got talking to a South African and he asked me to write my website URL in the back of his passport!
Riding in Mozambique felt very different. Similar to West Africa where chaos prevails on the roads. Funnily enough, it was a welcome relief from the relatively structured way of life in South Africa!
From the border, Komatipoort to the capital, Maputo, I struggled to see any place to wild camp. Within minutes of staying in Maputo, I was bitten by a mosquito. After malaria, I'm feeling anxious about re-entering the malaria zone.
Heading up the coast, I got chatting to a guy at the roadside when I stopped to buy bread. He talked of mining for stones and gold in Northern Mozambique. This was fascinating, but perhaps more intriguing was he was convinced I was travelling to Vilankulo because that's where all the Hollywood actors go, such as Tom Cruise, apparently!
Tofo Beach is a cool village on the coast. Very touristy, but it has a relaxed vibe, a lovely beach, and good food and beer. I bumped into Jaakko and Mike again, which made for a fun few days! Roasted cashew nuts are pushed by many young boys on the beach. Despite being mobbed by many trying to make a sale, they are the best cashew nuts I've had! Eventually made it further North to Vilankulo, which was OK, but Tofo was so much better!
En route to Lake Cahora Bassa, we finally managed to camp wild. Haven't camped wild for months and really missed it! I love the challenge of finding somewhere, being close to nature, and only having the bare essentials.
The trucks are crazy in Mozambique. We were run off the road several times. Mostly because the trucks avoid swerve to avoid potholes. Have to be very alert and ride defensively.
The last section before the Lake Cahora Bassa was a dirt track. Here's a short video.
By the time I arrived at Lake Cahora Bassa, I had endured diarrhea and disrupted sleep for a few days, and was very shattered. We had a great camp spot right on the edge of the lake.
The lake was beautiful; however, we couldn't swim because of the risk from crocodiles!