One of the many great things about riding around the world on a motorcycle is meeting people. Multiple people recommended a place to stay on the North coast of Tanzania because the resort was run by a biker. Turns out he is also called Steve! Their place at Fish Eagle Point is beautiful, and you can camp between the mangroves. My high level of technical adeptness caused me to accidentally record the route from the main road to Fish Eagle Point. A small ride, but good fun.
Steve recommended a dirt road route through the mountains in the Tanga region that avoided tarmac. Local route knowledge is often like gold dust!
On the first day, I encountered a washed out bridge. Two locals on a 125 cc motorcycle arrived. Without a second thought, one kicks off his flip flops, and cautiously places each step on the rocky water bed as he slowly waded through foot high, murky water. He had figured out a safe route. I helped push their motorcycle through the river. They then helped the mzungu (me!) to push mine. After exchanges of smiles and handshakes, and my pidgeon Swahili, we went our separate ways. Unfortunately, my camera wouldn't work; otherwise, I would have had some cool photos/videos.
Further along, a small truck was stuck in mud. A path had been carved into the bush that snaked around the sticky predicament. Proceeding with caution, I was at the tail end of the detour when I dropped my motorcycle as the rear wheel slipped away from underneath me. One pannier was caked in wet mud! Some locals plodded into the mud and helped me right my motorcycle as my feet were slipping away contently. Good guys.
I had reached my destination—Mambo View Point Eco Lodge. Positioned at a peak in the Usambara mountains, it's a cool location where you can hear sounds travel between the mountains that gives a sense of the local vibe. Early evening, I could hear the sound of drums from nearby communities before a quiet night's sleep. Every now and then during the daytime, chirps from the hustle and bustle of local life bounce between the mountains. I met Dagwara from Mambo View Point Eco Lodge who very kindly took this photo. The guy on the left is a bicycle tour guide and his name is Good Luck!
The next day, my camera was working and I captured my route from Mambo View Point towards Lushoto.
In Arusha, I met Simon at the Outpost Lodge, the son of Steve from Fish Eagle Point. A lovely retreat in Arusha that doesn't feel like you're in the city. We chatted lots about adventure motorcycles and travel in general. Simon showed an overlander campsite they were developing and introduced me to Doug, who I satyed with for a few days. Doug is a living legend! We
The night before I left, he shared a bottle of red wine that I think he had been saving. We ate a potent pasta sauce of garlic, chilli, and onion. Awesome company, good food and drink, and a truly sublime evening. After leaving Doug's, feeling slightly hungover, I managed to ride 220+ miles heading West with only some brief downpours. Challenging at times with rain pelting the tip of my nose that is exposed from my goggles!
© 2018-2020 Stephen Matthews, Biking Over Yonder